Original finishes are part of the historical value of a piece. It is the finish in a piece of wood that will determine its value. Once an original finish is removed it cannot be put back.

Before undertaking any sort of restoration of a piece, consider the following:

• the needs of the object vs. the needs of the user
• what you would like to accomplish vs. what you are able to accomplish
• how can you ethically preserve historic integrity vs. how much time/money do you want to commit

If your answers still indicate that restoration is necessary, consult a professional conservator.

Storage

• Keep historic furniture out of attics and basements. Check regularly for evidence of insects and mold.

Care

• Don't use commercial oils that claim to "feed" the finish or sprays containing silicone. Contrary to commercials, wood does not need to be "fed." Oil soaks into open grain and oxidizes, turning the wood black. If necessary, clean wooden surfaces with a lint-free cloth lightly dampened with a mild soap-and-water solution.

• Furniture made before World War I is sensitive to water and should be dusted only with a dry cloth or one with odorless paint thinner in it.
• Do not wet clean unfinished wood.
• Use paste wax, butcher's wax or French polish sparingly, once a year, to make light dusting easier. Wax around, not on, damaged areas.
• Clean upholstery by vacuuming carefully through a plastic screen, and avoid stain-resistant treatments.
• Wipe up any spills immediately. If a stain remains or you see signs of damage, contact a conservator.
• Over time, paint oxidizes, fading the paint and giving it a mellow appearance. If paint dries to the point that it begins to crack, it's better left alone.
• Original finishes and upholstery are very important to the value of heirloom furniture. Do not alter or remove them if possible.

Glossary

acid-free tissue - In the course of time most tissue paper will become acidic and brittle with age. The acidity will transfer to adjacent objects causing these objects to become weaker and possibly discolored. Acid free tissue papers are specially processed to remove such contaminants. An 18 pound weight paper is useful for quilts, coverlets, and the storage of other flat textiles. For stuffing or interleaving, a lighter 12 pound paper is better. This lighter acid free paper is also known as "laminating tissue."

conservator - persons who periodically examine objects, document their condition, and, if necessary, treat and repair them to protect collections over time.
For more information or to locate a professional conservator, visit The American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works.

muslin - a thin plain-weave cotton cloth used for curtains, sheets, and dresses

PAT test (photographic activity test) - a test that predicts possible interactions between photographic images and the enclosures in which they are stored. Boxes or other types of enclosures that hold several images, even if those images are in envelopes or sleeves, should be tested too. Many of the harmful chemicals in poor-quality enclosures can become airborne and, over time, work their way to the photograph.

PVC pipe - a lightweight, durable, and waterproof plastic pipe used for plumbing

polyethylene bags - flexible, extremely tough, and chemical-resistant plastic bags commonly used as sandwich or freezer storage

ragboard - board made from cotton and contains no wood (lignins). Little pulping or purification is required because cotton is the purest natural form of cellulose. Rag board is also called Museum Board, is acid-free and meets the standards set by the Library of Congress for museum quality matboard. It is available with or without buffering.

unbuffered - containing neither alkaline nor acid